Wednesday 31 May 2017

Great Road Trips in Peru - Ica to Chalhuanca

Peru is well-known for its Inca heritage such as the ancient citadel of Machu Picchu but there is far more to the country and a road trip from Ica to Cusco passes through a multitude of landscapes, allows you to visit several very interesting areas and gives you a close up view of a number of indigenous cultures. We have broken the trip, and the hence this article, into 2 parts which you could drive over two days if you wish. However there are various places of interest along the way where you could break the journey further and see more of what the route has to offer.

Ica to Nazca - 2 hours, 95 miles

Our great road trip starts in Ica, the main wine and Pisco making area in Peru. This provincial town is 4 hours drive from Lima but we have not included Lima to Ica in this route description as it is not very interesting. Whilst staying in Ica you will be able to visit vineyards in the area, maybe Tacama or Vista Alegre to see how wine and Pisco are produced. The vineyards of Peru are rather less developed that those you find in Chile or Argentina but they have plenty of character. Ica is also home to the Huacachina Oasis with its huge sand dunes surrounding a natural lagoon. At the oasis you are able to take sand buggy rides out into the desert and try sand-boarding, you can boat on the lagoon or just relax and wander about.

Leaving Ica you will drive along the famous Pan American Highway which stretches from Colombia to Patagonia. In many places this road is just one lane in each direction and it is thus in Peru for the most part. The road takes you out through plantations on the outskirts of Ica with its vines and cacti and then into the desert proper. The southern Peruvian desert is an extension of the Atacama, the driest place on earth, and the landscapes are very barren indeed for around 2 hours. There are gas stations along the Pan Americana, plus the road is tolled right up to Cusco so there are also SOS posts for assistance. Obviously basic Spanish would be a help, or at least learn some useful phrases just in case.

Around 45 minutes before you get to Nazca you will pass through some small mountains to reach the Palpa valley famous for its fruit, oranges in particular. Palpa also has its own version of the Nazca Lines etched into the hills around the small town. Take care when driving through towns and villages as there are a number of hazards severe speed humps, potholes, small animals, moto-taxis, children and drunken villagers in the road etc. Enjoy the drive but be vigilant.Around 10 miles before you get to the town of Nazca the road climbs up to around 1600 feet and the Nazca Plain, home to the famous Nazca Lines. These huge, ancient lines are etched into the desert and their origin and function are still hotly debated due to their size, intricate shapes and the fact that they can only be seen properly from the air. If you decide to stay in Nazca itself then you have the option of taking a small aircraft flight to see the lines from the air. There is also a viewing tower on the main road and a small hill you can climb to get partial views.

Nazca to Chalhuanca - 7 hours, 210 miles

This part of the journey is a series of spectacular climbs and descents as you cross the Andes. Make sure you fill the tank with gas before leaving Nazca, this will get you to Chalhuanca with fuel to spare. Leave Nazca on the road sign posted Puquio / Abancay, this is very easy to locate as there are only 2 roads leaving Nazca, one for Arequipa and the other one that you need. If in doubt you can always ask a local by saying "Abancay" in an enquiring tone!

This first climb takes you winding up through high desert for around one and a half hours, there are views initially of the world largest sand dune, the "Cerro Blanco" on the right. As you get higher you leave civilization behind and have only cacti and truckers for company, the road is in generally very good condition but continual switchbacks keep your speed right down. You will then reach a high plain, or Altiplano as it is known, and a national reserve called Pampa Galera which is located between 12,000 and 16,000 feet above sea level. This reserve is home to the shy Vicuña, a small member of the camel family, highly prized for its very fine wool. There are now thousands of these animals in the reserve and they can be seen from the road and sometimes actually on the road so please don't drive too fast so you able to avoid them if they run out. As a further reminder not to drive too fast you will see lots of shrines along the road sides. These are for people who have died on the road, normally from terrible bus drivers who have driven off the edge.

After leaving the Pampa Galera you will start an impressive drop into a lush valley of small villages and farming communities. Crops, livestock and farmers using primitive farming techniques line the road and after crossing the river at the bottom of the valley you will start to climb again for what seems like an eternity, up through changing landscapes and the ugly town of Puquio. If you need a break from driving a stop on the other side of Puquio is a good one as there are amazing rock formations and great views.

You will keep climbing after Puquio until you reach the Altiplano again at around 13,000 feet. The landscape becomes very barren and brooding and the views of extinct volcanos and glacial lakes with their flamingos is beautiful. The weather at this altitude is very changeable, it could be snowing or blazing sunshine but in any case it will be cold. You now have around 2 hours of crossing the Altiplano broken by a huge canyon with amazing views, and filled with thousands of llama and alpaca farms. The last section of the journey is a gradual descent into a sub-tropical valley which gradually becomes greener and warmer until you reach the town of Chalhuanca. This is your opportunity to refuel with enough gas to get you to Cusco.

Around 30 minutes after Chalhuanca, crisscrossing the river several times you will come upon our recommended night stop on the right hand side, the Tampumayu Hotel. This is a great place to spend the night and rest and spend a couple of nights if you have the time. You could visit traditional communities nearby and even do some fishing in the fast-flowing river. In any case you will be able to rest here before taking the second part of the journey to Cusco.

If you are looking for the Lima to Nazca bus and want to travel there, please visit us at Lima to Nazca bus.

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