On Monday I made arrangements for a three day hiking trip, leaving on Tuesday morning. I had welcomed my companion Max to run with me, yet at last he needed to pull out because of work. I had needed to begin climbing from Cotahuasi, which is at 8,800 feet; that would make a pick up of around 8,000 feet in height. However when I understood that the week after week Sanchez bus for Lima would leave Cotahuasi Tuesday morning at around 8:30, I chose to take that to Visca Grande. Visca Grande is an intersection where the old foot and creature trail crosses the present rock street amongst Cotahuasi and Chuquibamba, and is the ordinary beginning spot for climbing Solimana for those going by bus. This would likewise spare me an expected eight or nine hours of climbing time and 6,526 feet of height pick up. For a cost of five soles ($1.60), it appeared to be justified, despite all the trouble
The bus at last left Cotahuasi at 9:00 am, and fortunately it wasn't brimming with Lima travelers, so I could get a seat. At 10:45 I was waving farewell to the bus as I remained on a sand level at 15,328 feet (4,672 m.). A couple of minutes after the fact, somewhat higher up, looking southeast I could see two of the pinnacles of Nevado Coropuna, and looking south, the north pinnacle of Solimana. The prescribed course to Solimana is to take after a trail west to the Soro River, and after that take after the waterway to its source, which is the ice sheet on Solimana. I had climbed from the intersection of the trail and the stream, to the street last November when my auto separated, and recalled that it taking two or three hours. I couldn't perceive any sense in going that far west, when Solimana was south of me. I had done a bit of investigating a couple days prior on my drive to Cotahuasi, and it seemed as though it was conceivable to climb crosscountry straightforwardly to Solimana.
The entire high plain here is volcanic sand with scattered rocks and stones, with somewhat extremely solid vegetation. It is not level, there are numerous crevasses and slopes, and infrequent gullies that can be very profound. However from my prior surveillance, I didn't perceive any issues that would keep a crosscountry course. The sand is very coarse and firm, and is anything but difficult to stroll on, dissimilar to typical delicate shoreline sand. I began off in a marginally southwesterly heading, realizing that there was a low mountain amongst me and Solimana that I needed to go around on the west end. The wind was somewhat cool, yet with a lively pace and a general tender height pick up in the hot sun, it made for flawless climbing conditions.
At around 1:30, I was quite recently over a shallow bowl where I was enchanted to see five vicuñas touching. There were extremely bashful and despite the fact that I attempted to skirt around before them, I couldn't get close them for a decent picture. I got an incredible perspective of Solimana, through a seat in the mountain edge that I was going around. The vicuñas really drove me up around the correct end of the edge, and took off towards the east end of Solimana. At the highest point of the edge, I got a separating look at the street to Cotahuasi and removed mountains on the opposite side of the gulch, and furthermore Nevado Firura, my next climbing objective. In front of me was the half hover of the Solimana summits, with the icy mass settled in the bowl. There was a high edge between us, however at long last following 3 hours and 45 minutes, I was finally on a trail. It was just a black out creature trail, however it was anything but difficult to see and was going around the slope, so I chose to tail it.
At 3:05, I could see the Soro River crossing before me, and the intersection with the street (close to the ordinary trail) way off toward the west of me, so was exceptionally content with my crosscountry course. I am certain it more likely than not spared me a few hours and was a simple climb. In the wake of going down and crossing the tight waterway, I began the ascend the edge on the correct side of the stream towards the ice sheet. At this point I could see that I would need to go the distance to the icy mass to get the course photographs that I needed, which brought about another arrangement to bring forth in my brain. I read that one of the three pinnacles of Solimana had no detailed summit climbs. I was imagining that it was the crest on the right, which is the most minimal of the three. The center pinnacle is the genuine summit, which is isolated from the north crest by a sharp yet generally short edge. The ordinary course goes up to the edge between the two pinnacles.
The crest on the privilege, the west summit, gave off an impression of being for the most part snow free on the north side where I was, so I chose to check whether it was climbable. I hadn't moved toward climbing the mountain, so obviously I didn't have my ice hatchet, crampons or even my substantial gloves. I could see two conceivable courses, the without snow north course, and another from the east, beginning over the icy mass. It was incompletely covered up by a minor pinnacle, however what I could see of it was canvassed in snow. Be that as it may it was not as steep as the north course, so I chose I ought to in any event look at it in the morning and see what it resembled. However, the essential thing now was to get camp set up before it got dull. It was currently 5:30 and the sun was at that point behind an edge, and at 17,711 feet, it was getting cool quick. The sun made a lovely shine high up on the east edge, which paves the way toward the north summit, which obviously gave me thoughts for a future edge course endeavor.
Of more quick concern however, was a reality that I had acknowledged before toward the evening, that I had neglected to bring my trekking posts. It wasn't a major ordeal climbing without them, however they likewise serve as my tent shafts! Obviously there had not been a stick or branch in sight after I got off the bus at more than 15,000 feet. I had been thinking about utilizing my tent like a bivy sack, yet realized that within would be canvassed with ice in the morning, so that wasn't an engaging choice. The one thing I had was rocks of all sizes and sorts - including level stackable ones and extensive stones. I chose that a rock was the best choice, and soon found a reasonable one toward the finish of a thin level sandy range. I got the tent set up, it was low and unbalanced, yet it worked.
Not needing solidified submits the morning, I rested in until after the sun began liquefying the ice on my tent, and after that after breakfast got an un-snow capped begin at 8:00 am. It was a wonderful morning, and was warming up quickly, particularly with the climbing starting decisively. Another little issue was that I hadn't brought my shades, as I never wear them when climbing, and I hadn't moved toward being in the snow. Luckily there was a rough edge to one side of the icy mass, with just a couple patches of snow on it. It made it difficult to appreciate the delightful perspectives off to one side however, as I ascended over the ice sheet. Subsequent to getting the course photographs for my companions, I looked at the east snow-shrouded course toward the west summit. It was to be sure all snow, and wasn't excessively steep, however with the penitentes (sharp delicate snow spikes) and no shades, it was not feasible.
I backpedaled down to the more straightforward north course, which was a lofty chute of scree, and searched for the most ideal far up. It resembled the most secure course was to skirt the rough left edge of the chute, which appeared to go almost the entire way up to the base of the pinnacle. While taking a gander at the course, I rested a bit and ate a nibble, at 18,610 feet. At 10:34 I began up the scree, attempting to locate the greatest and most strong rocks to use for foot and hand holds. It wasn't excessively troublesome going up, yet I didn't know about descending a similar way. However over amidst the chute it was free of rocks and seemed as though it would be a simple slide down.
Just before coming to the tightest piece of the chute, I was enticed to leave the scree and move up a 10-foot shake confront. In any case I couldn't perceive what was above it so chose to cross over and proceed up the chute. When I got up over that I was happy I had not moved up the stones, as one slip above them and it would have been similar to sliding down a ski hop, with a harsh landing. At this point I could see the genuine west summit, which had been taking cover behind a lower pinnacle when looking from down beneath. I was baffled to see that it had a considerable amount of snow in the splits and on the stones. Indeed, even without the snow, I am certain there would have been more troublesome shake moving than I would have possessed the capacity to do alone, and particularly with no climbing gear. In the wake of taking a gander at the perspectives over the edge toward the south, I dropped my pack and climbed up the extent that I was agreeable. My GPS demonstrated 19,267 feet, and I was most likely several hundred feet beneath the summit.
The perspectives were awesome anyway, I got a decent take a gander at the north pinnacle and the genuine summit, which is 19,990 feet. It was certain that attempting to achieve the summit by taking after the sharp edge from where I was impossible, at any rate for me. Additionally the stone ascend to the summit on the south side looked a great deal more troublesome than it did from down on the ice sheet. Which leaves the standard course up a ravine, which doesn't have much snow in it, making it harder to climb.
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